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Jumble sale style...Affordable...Original Fashion

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CLASSIC TIME-HONORED   ESTABLISHED

Sub cultures 

ROCKERS

Until the post war years, motorcycling put you in a high-status position within British society and was enjoyed as a positive image being associated with capital and appeal. By the 1950s the middle class people were able to buy cheaper motorcars and this resulted in motorcycles becoming transport for the poor.

The ROCKERS subculture first seen in the United States and then later in England, came about due to factors such as: the end of post war rationing in the UK, a general rise in funding for working class youths.  The influence of American popular music and films such as ‘The Wild One’ and the development of transport cafes. These factors contributed to the peak in British motorcycle engineering.

The rocker-style youths came around in the 1950s, they were also referred to as the ton up boys. Ton up was English slang for driving at fast speeds of up to 100mph or over. The rockers took what was known as a sport and turned it into their lifestyle, dropping out of mainstream society and rebelling to the point it had a damaging effect on the public image of motorcycling in the UK.

Rockers engrossed themselves in rock and roll music and fashion styles. They were now known for their devotion to rock and roll music as well as their bikes. Many rockers enjoyed music from artist such as: Vincent, Eddie Cochran, Chuck Berry and Elvis Presley; who were very popular in the 1950s and early 60s. Rockers bought standard factory made bikes, and stripped them down, tuning them up and customising them to emerge like racing bikes. The faster the better.  They projected an image of intimidation and masculinity, an element exaggerated by their use of skull and cross bone symbols; racing on public roads and hanging out at transport cafes.

The rocker fashion style was born out of what was necessary and practical to them. They wore heavy decorated leather motorcycle jackets, often ornamented with metal studs, patches, pin badges and sometimes the gas man trinket for Esso. They usually wore no helmet, or wore the classic open face helmet and Aviator style goggles and a white silk scarf’s, to protect them from dust and other elements.

They also wore t shirts, leather caps; Levis jeans were very popular as well as Wrangler jeans. Leather trousers and tall leather motorcycle boots.

The rocker hairstyle was kept in place with brylcreem, which made that brand extremely popular. The hairstyle was usually tamed or exaggerated like that of Elvis Presley and was popular with a lot of Rock n Roll musicians in the 50s.

Although they were known to be quite violent, originally Rockers opposed drug use. Their habit hatred for mods and a few other sub cultures was based on the fact they didn’t like drug use and saw the users as weak and as sissies.

Mods

Mod short for Modernist is the name of this subculture that originated in London, England in the early 60s. The British Mod style came about from the craving amongst British youth to move forward from the rigidity of the 50’s and uncivilized look of the teddy-boys, and to imitate the more stylish Italian and the French.

At the start they were known to wear smart sleek dark suits with a light or bright coloured short underneath. As the style became more popular, a more casual style was introduced; this style was influenced by pop art, expressed by symbols such as arrows, the Union Jack and RAF target emblems. Essential to the Mod look were Levi jeans which were usually turned up about 1inch at the bottom with desert boots. Fred Perry or Ben Sherman was popular choices of designers because of the slim fitting coloured tops; this emulated the tightly fitted tops the Italians were wearing at the time. Striped t shirts, cycling tops and hipster trousers were all becoming part of the mod look.

 Music was also an influential aspect of the Mod subculture; they listened to Afro American Soul, Jamaican Ska, Blue beat, certain British beat music and R&B are an essential to the subculture. From the start Modern jazz went hand in hand with the Mod culture, this then elevated into the Afro music and style.

From the mid late 60s the mass media often used the term ‘Mod’ to describe anything that was stylish, Modern or Fashionable.

 Soul Boys 




The late 70's and early 80's saw the age of the Soul Boys, part of the working class youth subculture in England who were into modern and Jazz funk, as well as American soul. The interest for many of these young people was the jazzier sounds of the likes of Roy Ayers and Liston Smith, rather than the earlier type of
soul music that characterized the typical Northern soul scene.
In the South East of England an ensuing sub culture arose in the 1980's as DJ's and artists, from Robbie Vincent to Boy George and from as far as The Canvey Islands to the Inner London suburbs of Southgate, was influenced widely by the Soul Boys.  




Chavs

A chav is a stereotype of certain people in the United Kingdom. Chavs are said to be aggressive and arrogant teenagers and young adults, of underclass background, council homes and teen pregnancy. They repeatedly engage in Anti-social behavior such as street drinking, drug abuse and rowdiness, or other forms of juvenile delinquency. Their usual uniform is Burberry or  jd sportswear. The women are often seen in belly tops, tight jeans or tracksuit bottoms or velour suits. they hairstyles are usually greasy or wet look gelled tightly back. celebrity model Jordan, aka Katie Price is a Prime example of a Chav.

Robert Cavalli

 

Fall 2009

Spring/summer 2011

Spring summer men’s 2011

Roberto cavalli

Roberto Cavalli was born in Florence, Italy. As a young man he enrolled at the local Art Institute and concentrated in exploring textile print. While still a student he designed a series of flower prints using the knitting technique, this had caught the attention of major Italian hosiery factories.

By the early 70’s Roberto Cavalli had invented a unique printing procedure to be used on leather. He created a series of patchworks using many different materials and colours. He first displayed these techniques in Paris which resulted in immediate commissions from the likes of designers such as Hermes and Pierre Cardin. At the age of 30, he presented his first collection at the Salon for Prêt-à-Porter in Paris; he became widely known for his wild prints and soon after opened his first boutique in 1972 in Saint-Tropez.

Cavallis’ style and inspiration comes a lot from animals, his wild statement animal prints are his signature style. His designs also reflect the Rock ‘n’ Roll Gypsy woman. Bold colours and bold prints. His main line is sold worldwide in over 50 countries. He designs Menswear, womens wear and accessories. Eyewear, watches, perfumes, underwear and beachwear. In 1998 he also launched a youth collection called “Just Cavalli” which became an instant success.

Nina Ricci

s/s 1966

s/s 2011

Maria ‘Nina’ Ricci Was born in Turin Italy 1883, then later moved to Florence Italy with her family when she was a young girl. At age 13, she began an apprenticeship at dressmakers. From there she continued her love of fashion through her teenage years into her adult years.

Nina joined the House of Raffin as a designer and later became a partner. She worked there for nearly 20 years before moving on to create her design house in 1932. She did this with her son Robert, who handled the business and finances whilst Nina designed and created garments.

Her technique was to work directly on to the mannequin with the fabrics to ensure the garments had shape once they were finished. She created graceful, sophisticated garments in classic style. She made the most of printed fabrics and cutting dresses on a bias. Her evening style was to draw attention to the figure, by making the garments fitted below the waist. Her garments also featured much drapery and shirring.

Nina Ricci is known for her refined, romantic feminine designs, and a touch of this is added to all her collections. Nina passed in the early 70’s and her son continued as the head of the house. Today the house of Ricci is being continued by designer Peter Copping, who has worked with Marc Jacobs, he continues to create beautiful and elegant Nina Ricci fashion.

Luciano Soprani

 

Luciano Soprani was born in Reggiolo Italy in 1946. He was an Italian designer known for his tailored colourful men’s suits and silk evening gowns.

After studying agriculture, he discovered he was more in love with fashion, and in 1967 he joined the local fashion house of Max Mara. He worked there for nearly eight years. He moved to Milan after and designed and created garments as a freelancer. He worked with major labels such as Basile, Nazareno, Gabrielli and Gucci.

In 1982 Luciano Soprani set up his own fashion house, whilst he continued working as a freelancer for other labels. He was also the wardrobe designer for the 1990 film Wild Orchid.

Soprani has always made his garment according to mainstream wearability and also incorporating a minimalism. His style has always been clean and classical combined with creative choices of fabrics and colours.

This season’s collections featured clean shift dresses with creative colour blocking, as well as acid bright silk frocks some with subtle floral prints. His use of summer leathers both for flirtatious skater skirts and modern pierced coats; high neck lines and fully buttoned collars keep the mood modest but not severe, the metallic spray embellishment adds a touch of edge and glamour. Flats were the chosen footwear for this collection, adding a simple and youthful direction to the whole collection.

In 1992 Luciano fell out with his business partner (Onward Kashiyama) who owned 70% of Luciano Soprani SpA. Soprani dissociated himself from the company, whilst trying to regain use of the trademark.

Years later he sadly passed of throat cancer in a hospital in Milan, on 23 October 1999.

The Luciano Soprani brand identifies itself with its clear creations, crucial and decisively reassuring style, superb tailoring both in contour and volume, a well selected choice of fabrics; he makes himself awareness of changes and evolution. In synthesis this is the unmistakable style that characterizes all of Luciano Soprani creations and which has earned its name as one of the leading brands of Italian Style.

Nicola Trussardi

s/s 2011

Nicola Trussardi was born in 1942 in Bergamo, Lombardy. He was a well known Italian designer and entrepreneur. 

As a young man he graduated with a degree in economics at the Catholic University of Milan. In 1970 he took over his family’s glove making business, which was founded in 1910 by his grandfather Dante Trussardi, and reconfirmed it as a major company that helped contribute to chain of the ‘made in Italy’ label worldwide.

He expanded the company product line beyond just gloves, it now created luxury accessories and in 1973 he created the Trussardi spiky greyhound logo.  Within a few years he launched a line of leather jackets. This was the first step towards their first ready to wear line, which by the 1980s included womenswear, menswear, sportswear and children’s wear.

As well as all of this, Trussardi also has a wide range of design activities; it designs interiors for the airline company Alitalia, for Alfa Romeo cars and even Helicopters.

His latest line Trussardi 1911 is a luxury line designed for both men and women who love top quality designs, which are eye catching whilst modest and tasteful. The selection of fabrics and materials are unparalleled, branded by uncompromising quality. The look is synonymous with luxury, and appeals a lot to the understated elegance of European ladies ‘who lunch’.

Trussardi was killed when he lost control of his Mercedes, in Milan and hit a lamp post in the early hours of the 13th of April, 1999; he died the following day in Milan.

His son Francesco died four years later in the crash of his Ferrari. He was 29.

Since then, Nicola's daughters have taken over, Gaia the youngest, helms the creative vision for the womenswear line, and Beatrice taking charge of the company's business affairs, including attracting new talent, like Milan Vukmirovic, who has held the head designer position since 2008.

   Ottavio Missoni

A/W menswear and womenswear 2011

    

Ottavio Missoni is an Italian designer (fashion house) based in Varese. It is well known for its unique knitwear. These are usually made from a variety of fabrics in colourful patterns. The fashion house was founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in 1953.

Missoni as a fashion brand create exceptional knitwear that you are always able to identify by its fluidity, its careful selected colour schemes and special effects that add an edgy element to the softness.

The Missoni fashion house has won many awards for Ottavio exquisite designs, such as the Bath Museum of Costume Dress of the Year Award 1974, FGI Design Award 1991, Dallas Historical Fashion Collectors’ Stanley award 1999... Just to name a few.

Besides the main Missoni line, the brand has also crossed over to a variety of luxury products such as furnishing fabrics and perfumes. Missoni also launched a sports line briefly. Now under the creative leadership Ottavios and Rosita’s daughter Angela, the label continues to deliver superb, delicate collections with incomparable Italian finesse. Elegant evening wear with bohemian accessories are amongst its wide-ranging contemporary repertoire.






Vivienne Westwood

s/s 2009



Vivienne Westwood is a designer who inspires other designers. she was born in derby shire in 1941 and followed the punk movement. she was known as the leading designer that developed the punk uniform. she touched on subjects that people were not so open to, such as sex.
in the 80s she was hailed by the women s wear daily as one of the six most influential designers of all time

  and in 2004 the Victoria & Albert Museum launched a travelling retrospective exhibition defining her iconic status - the tour will last 7 years and visit Australia, China and the USA.

There is an intellectual method to the madness of her creative energy. Historical references, techniques and fabrics are intrinsic to her approach to design. The results are unconventional and alluring. Her subversive shapes and constructions have consistently proved to be ahead of their time. Awarded an OBE 15 years after being arrested on the night of the Queen's Silver Jubilee, she has now become a part of the establishment she continues to oppose. Myriad awards have been conferred on her, including British Designer of the Year, twice.

Alexander McQueen

The Gothic sensibility of a Brothers Grimm fairytale is closer in spirit to Alexander McQueen's clothing - than the fetish, gore and misogyny he's been accused of promoting. However dark McQueen's design, it still achieves a femininity that has seduced everyone from Bjork to the Duchess of Westminster.

McQueen's rise to power is a fashion fairytale all of its own. The East End taxi driver's son, born in 1969, is apprenticed to the Prince of Wales' tailor Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row where he infamously scrawls obscenities into the linings of HRH's suits. He works with Romeo Gigli, theatrical costumers Angels & Bermans and Koji Tatsuno before Central Saint Martins MA course director Bobby Hilson suggests he enrol.

His 1992 'Jack the Ripper' graduation collection thrills members of the British fashion press, none more so than Isabella Blow who buys the entire collection and adopts McQueen as one of her proteges. McQueen's bloodline of angular, aggressive tailoring is inherited from MGM costume designer Adrian, Christian Dior and Thierry Mugler.

His 'Highland Rape' and 'The Birds' collections used Mr Pearl corsetry to draw in the waist and exaggerate square shoulders and sharp pencil skirts. Brutality tempered by a lyricism characterises the McQueen style. By 1996 he was named British Designer of the Year.

Paul Smith

A serious accident while riding his bike put paid to Paul Smith's dream of becoming a professional racing-cyclist. However, this mishap propelled him to pursue a career involving his other passion: fashion. In 1970, Smith (born Nottingham, 1946) opened a store in his native city, selling his own early designs that reflected the types of clothing he loved but was unable to buy anywhere else. Studying fashion design at evening classes, and working closely with his wife, Pauline Denyer, a graduate of the Royal College of Art, by 1976 lie was showing a full range of menswear in Paris.

Carving out a distinctive look that combined the best of traditional English attire often with unusual or witty prints, Smith blazed a trail throughout the late '70s. His progress continued into the '80s - when he put boxer shorts back on the fashion map - and beyond, with stores opened in New York (1987), and Paris (1993). The designer now has a staggering 300 shops in Japan, and also offers a range of womenswear (launched in 1994) and clothing for kids, in addition to accessories, books, jewellery, fragrances, pens, rugs and china.

Press, Styling, Photography and Marketing

Twiggy 

Twiggy was born in north London on September 19th, 1949. She was named "The Face of '66" by the Daily Express. In the mid 60's at 16 years of age, Twiggy became internationally known as the world's first supermodel, her photographic modelling success epitomising the age. Twiggy went on to become a successful actress in film, stage and television, beginning her acting career by starring in Ken Russell's film "The Boyfriend", for which she won two Golden Globe awards; most promising newcomer and best actress in a musical. She has recorded many albums since, encompassing a variety of styles including pop, rock, disco, country and show tunes. Twiggy's successful recordings have earned her two silver discs, two chart albums and hit singles.

Harpers Bazaar

cover 1958

August 2008

Harpers bazaar is a womens magazine that is highly sophisticated and provocative with its fashion it has the best buys from casual to couture. Harper’s Bazaar was firstly an American fashion magazine first published in 1867 but then later created a UK version.
 Harper’s Bazaar is published by Hearst and, as a magazine, considers itself to be the style resource for women. it is aimed at the upper middle and upper class women. Bazaar selects the right photographers, artists, designers and writers to deliver the best fashion pages with a large prospective into the world of fashion on a monthly basis.

Cecil Beaton 

when Cecil went to school his talents were quickly discovered. Whilst growing up his grandmother he used her kodak 3A Camera, a popular model which was renowned for being an ideal piece of equipment to learn on. Beaton's nanny began teaching him the basics of photography and developing film. He would often get his sisters and mother to sit for him. When he was sufficiently proficient, he would send the photos off to London society magazines, often writing under a pen name and ‘recommending’ the work of Beaton

Beaton had a major influence on and relationship with two other leading lights in British photography, that of Angus McBean and David Bailey. McBean was arguably the best portrait photographer of his era—in the second part of McBean's career (post-war) his work is clearly heavily influenced by Beaton, though arguably McBean was technically far more proficient in his execution. Bailey was also enormously influenced by Beaton when they met while working for British Vogue in the early 1960s, Bailey's stark use of square format (6x6) images bears clear connections to Beaton's own working patterns.

Stacy London 



Stacy London (born May 25, 1969) is an American fashion consultant/stylist and media personality known primarily for her role as co-host on what not to wear, a reality program that features makeovers. After graduating from Vassar College, London started her career as a fashion editor at Vogue and transitioned into being a stylist for both celebrities and designers. While still co-hosting What Not to Wear with Clinton 
in addition to her hosting duties and endorsements, London has done some fashion reporting forWeekend Today, The Early Show, Good Day Live and Access Hollywood. She is a frequent contributor on NBC's "Today Show. In 2010, London and business partner Cindy McLaughlin co-founded Style for Hire, an online service that matches people with personal stylists that live in their area. The agency was launched on September 13 in Washington DC.

bibliography

www.google.com/images

www.wikipedia.com

www.italiandesigners.com